Day 11 - May 16. 2014 - Dubrovnik to Hvar

Today's logistics had me a little worried. I could not book anything advance. Bus and ferry tickets can only be purchased on the same day that you want to travel. I had read horror stories of buses and ferries being so full that travellers would be stranded. Fortunately, since it was off season, there was plenty of room on the bus to Split. For $23 each we were on our way to Split on the 8am bus along with 4 other passengers.

The bus was basically rocking me to sleep, when Matt nudged me awake. We were approaching a border crossing. Bosnia and Herzegovina owns a 15 mile stretch of coastline that divides Croatia. At the border, our passports were checked by an officer who could really care less if we really matched our passport photos. I had expected to see this small strip of coastal access completely developed with a large port and possible military presence, but there was nothing of the kind. There were just sleepy little villages, abandoned buildings and a random "resort" hotel that looked like it belonged under communist rule. It was a short ride through a small part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but I can now say I have been there. I had wanted to do a day trip to Mostar, but that will have to wait for another visit.

We were scheduled to arrive in Split by 11:30 (according to Croatian time-keepers) but actually arrived at 12:30. Once off the bus, we quickly found the ferry ticket office and were able to book seats on the 2:00 catamaran to Hvar. We had time to enjoy a nice lunch, admire the latest fashion (a onsie) and then boarded the catamaran for the island of Hvar.

It was an hour ferry ride to Hvar. The water was smooth for the most part. According to our safety directions on the boat, the #1 rule in the event of a disaster was, "DON'T FORGET DRUGS if you use them!"

Arriving in Hvar was like walking into a picture post card...the kind that you wonder if places like that really do exist. It was absolutely stunning. There were no crowds, no tour buses, no annoying tour groups, just the locals going about their daily routine. This idyllic setting does change by mid-June though and the little village can get very crowded with day-trippers and the occasional Hollywood celebrity.

Ivanka arrived at the Tourist Office as promised to pick us up and drive us to her home. She has 3 apartments above her home, each with a pretty little balcony with a great view. Once our bags were in our room, Ivanka welcomed us into her home for a little snack and an overview tutorial of Hvar. Here is one of the more interesting conversations I've had:

Ivanka: You sit. I made special cookies for special occasion 2 days ago. Was  big party. You try. I only make these cookies once a year.

Suzanne: These are delicious!!!! Such a unique flavor.

Ivanka: Yes, yes, very special. Special ingredient can only be found in 2 places in Croatia. A small pharmacy here in Hvar and one in Split. It is special alcohol from pharmacy.

Suzanne: You mean like a liquor?

Ivanka: No, alcohol...you know...POISON!...Use only a little, but is poison.

Matt: Did something just get lost in translation?

Suzanne: Well, I guess I like poison.

(The next day, we asked a local we made friends with if she knew about the poisoned cookies. She did. Her grandmother made them once a year too. The special ingrediant I thought might have been absinth because the cookies had a slight licorice flavor, but I was wrong. It was explained like this: "It is ammonia poison...you know, ammonia like from urine, but the poison kind. Ingredient very hard to get. Don't eat too many cookies. Just a few." Unfortunately, this explanation left us feeling even more confused.)

Turns out the cookies are called Croatian Cvite. This is the recipe which includes powdered ammonia.  http://eurocafeaulait.hubpages.com/hub/CROATIAN-CVITE
 

As we ate our poisoned cookies, Ivanka gave us the insider scoop as to the best places to eat, the best walks and the best pakeries. We were then off to explore our little island paradise.

We walked along the coastline for awhile until we arrived at a pretty little beach. Ivanka had recommended to eat at Moustache's which is on the beach. However, it was closed. Apparently, Moustache's wife had a birthday and they were away for the weekend. I did not matter, the walk was beautiful and the Adriatic was every shade of green imaginable.

We had dinner at Mazerol's. Ivanka swore they had the best lasagna and she was right. We sat outside for dinner and watched the kids play soccer in the main square. It had been an excellent afternoon and a major relief that both the bus and ferry schedules worked out. Tomorrow would be a full day of exploring.